A Slice of Puerto Rico in Orlando

As the celebration of national Hispanic Heritage month came to a close, we were reminded that the festivities surrounding “Navidades,” Christmas in the Spanish-speaking world, are not far off. At “Guavate” it’s “Navidades” all year-round. “Guavate” is the only authentic Puerto Rican restaurant to be found in the Orlando metropolitan area.

Walk into “Guavate” and you could be in the heart of Santurce, the commercial and residential center of metropolitan San Juan, or any corner of the island, where good Puerto Rican food is served. The senses are immediately engulfed with the sights, sounds and aromas of a real Puerto Rican culinary experience.

“Guavate” is on Alafaya Trail, in what is one of the growing upscale Puerto Rican enclaves in Orlando, far removed from the mountain barrio that bears the same name in Cayey, Puerto Rico, where “lechoneras” (pig roasters) line either side of route 184, cooking the ultimate in Puerto Rican cuisine, “lechon asado,” savory suckling pig roasted on a spit over an open fire pit.

During the holiday season in Puerto Rico, any time before and through Christmas and even after January 6th, Three Kings Day, a drive up the winding mountain roads to eat “lechon asado” in the cool, crisp country air is a tradition.

Billed as a Puerto Rican eatery and bistro, the Orlando restaurant is as unpretentious and welcoming, as its namesake community on the island with a dozen or so tables and booths and a few curbside tables with umbrellas to accommodate the overflow crowd of patrons that come from near and far to enjoy the finger-licking food and relaxed atmosphere.

The vaulting walls are covered with art depicting typical Puerto Rican countryside, alive with the vibrant red-flowering “flamboyan” trees. A birthday celebration is recognized by servers taking up the conga, bongo drums and maracas in a spirited rendition of the traditional birthday song, “felice, felice en su dia.” It is suggested that you call in advance ( 407.281.4700) to book a table, but don’t be surprised if you still have a bit of a wait, because people like to linger over their “café con leche” after a completely satisfying meal at very reasonable prices.

The menu is pure Puerto Rican. If you don’t like garlic, stay home. Otherwise, you’re in for a treat with a wide array of chicken, pork, beef and seafood dishes to choose from. There’s an outstanding selection of “Asopaos,” heavy rice soups laced with chicken, shrimp, lobster or seafood; stuffed “mofongo” and rice combinations. “Mofongo” is mashed plantain (the green banana used as a vegetable) with garlic and bits of bacon fried in olive oil. The “mofongo de yucca,” another root vegetable, is superb.

Best of all a dinner for two, starting with a plate of typical appetizers and a couple of beers cost us $48.00, including the tip. “Guavate” is located at 422 S. Alafaya Trail, one block north of Curry Ford Rd. It serves lunch and dinner and fills takeout group orders, offering “Pasteles Navidenos” all year-round at $25.00 a dozen and $15.00 for a half dozen. The “pastel” is the traditional plantain “wrap” filled with herbs and root vegetables that is the centerpiece of a Puerto Rican Christmas dinner, served with roast pork and “arroz con gandules,” rice and beans. The traditional Christmas dinner can be had at “Guavate” every day for $9.50.

The crowning touch, of course, is dessert, which features an assortment of “flans,” custards; “Pastelillo de Guayaba,” a guava turnover; “Tembleque,” a coconut custard; “Tres Leches,” a cake made from three milks; and, finally, “Dulce de Papaya con queso blanco,” pieces of candied papaya served with goat cheese.

The sweetness of the desserts can be perfectly off-set with a strong Puerto Rican coffee, served black or with milk, that is guaranteed to wake you up for the drive home. If you are not aware of the divine properties of Puerto Rican coffee, you should know that it has been served at the Vatican for years and was reportedly the favorite beverage of several Popes. No wonder that the patrons at “Guavate” religiously linger over the brew after a thoroughly delightful dining experience.